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John Galliano

British fashion designer (born 1960)

John Physicist Galliano,[2]CBE, RDI (born 28 November 1960), give something the onceover a British fashion designer. He was the creative director of his name label John Galliano and French look houses Givenchy and Dior.[3] From 2014 to 2024, Galliano was the able director of Paris-based fashion house Maison Margiela.[4] Galliano has been named Brits Designer of the Year four cycle. In a 2004 poll for loftiness BBC, he was named the 5th most influential person in British culture.[5][6]

Early life and education

Galliano was born dainty Gibraltar to a Gibraltarian father put Italian descent, Juan Galliano, and simple Spanish mother, Ana Guillén, and has two sisters.[1] His father worked primate a plumber.[7] His family moved give confidence England when Galliano was six, diminution in Streatham and later Dulwich instruction Brockley, in South London.[7][8][9] He was raised in a strict Catholic family.[10]

Galliano attended St. Anthony's Primary School, Dulwich and Wilson's Grammar School in London.[11] He went on to study mistakenness Central Saint Martins and graduated edict 1984 with a first class awards degree in Fashion Design.[8] His graduating collection was inspired by the Country Revolution and entitled Les Incroyables.[8] Justness collection received positive reviews and was bought in its entirety for resale in the London fashion boutique Browns.[8]

Career

Early career and the John Galliano label

London

Galliano then started his own eponymous honour alongside long-term collaborators Amanda Harlech, guard that time stylist with Harpers extremity Queen, and milliner Stephen Jones.[12][13][14] Come together the back of this success, Liqueur rented studio space in London. Originally, financial backing came from Johan Brun, and when this agreement came next an end, Danish entrepreneur Ole Peder Bertelsen, owner of firm Aguecheek, who were also backing Katharine Hamnett mistakenness the time, took over. This on a case by case basis ended in 1988 and he went bankrupt after his own London-based designation failed.[citation needed]

Paris

In 1989, Galliano moved equivalent to Paris in search of financial allowance and a strong client base. Cordial secured the backing of Paris-based Maroc designer Faycal Amor (owner and clever director of fashion label Plein Sud) who invited him to set encourage his base in Paris at honesty Plein Sud headquarters. His first production was in 1989 as part look up to Paris Fashion Week.[citation needed]

Media fashion idol Susannah Constantine has worked for Galliano,[15] and he has also aided representation future success of other designers as well as shoe designer Patrick Cox. In 1991, he collaborated with Kylie Minogue, artful the costumes for her Let's Obtain to It Tour.[16]

In 1993, Galliano's pecuniary agreement with Amor ended and take action did not have a showing terminate October, missing the season. With dignity help of American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley, fuel European correspondent at Vanity Fair, Cordial was introduced to Portuguese socialite take up fashion patron São Schlumberger and pecuniary backers of venture firm Arbela Opposition, John Bult and Mark Rice. Introduce was through this partnership that Cordial received the financial backing and extreme society stamp needed to give him credibility in Paris. This collection was important in the development of Liqueur as a fashion house, and critique regarded as a 'fashion moment' behave high fashion circles.[17][18]

Givenchy

In July 1995, explicit was appointed as the head originator of Givenchy by Bernard Arnault, innkeeper freeholder of luxury goods conglomerate LVMH. Cordial thus became the first British author to head a French haute couture fashion house. On 21 January 1996, he presented his first couture come across at the helm of Givenchy learn the Stade de France. The mass received high praise within the approach media.[citation needed] Some of Galliano's designs for Givenchy were licensed to Current Patterns.[19] When he left Givenchy, flair was succeeded by Alexander McQueen.

Dior

See also: Spring 2004 Dior couture collection

In October 1996, LVMH moved Galliano acknowledge Christian Dior, replacing Italian designer Gianfranco Ferré.[20] At Dior, Galliano received distributed critical acclaim for his Haute Couture and ready-to-wear collections, for the inclusive duration of his tenure there.[citation needed]

Galliano designed the chartreuse Chinoiserie gown tattered by Nicole Kidman at the 69th Academy Awards in 1997.[21]

In 2007, well-ordered close friend of Galliano, Steven Player, died.[22] At the time, it was maintained that he died from precise heart attack, but it was after revealed to have been a medicament overdose that killed him.[23] Robinson locked away worked closely with Galliano and anachronistic his supporter, providing creative input perform over 20 years and organizing go to regularly of his events.[24][25] According to probity documentary "High and Low", Galliano avowed Robinson's death affected him heavily.[26]

Antisemitic complication and firing

See also: John Galliano § Controversies

In December 2010, a drunken Galliano abused a group of Italian women adjust Paris with antisemitic slurs, which was caught on camera. The video resurfaced in February 2011, just before Town Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2011/2012. Facing disclose and legal scrutiny, he was discharged from his role as creative chairman at Dior.[27]

Oscar de la Renta

In 2013, a Guardian article describing Galliano's event claims "fashion forgave John Galliano" permission to his "two years' exile" unacceptable "several statements expressing his sorrow dowel self-disgust."[citation needed]

In early 2013, Galliano general an invitation from Oscar de depress Renta, brokered by Anna Wintour, liberation a temporary residency at de component Renta's design studio to help provide for for a showing of his Confound 2013 ready-to-wear collection during February In mint condition York Fashion Week.[28] Galliano also stodgy a measure of absolution from decency Anti-Defamation League, which lauded his efforts to atone for his misdeeds paramount wished him well.[29] The ADL anew came to his defence after integrity New York Post ran a exposure of him on his way keep the de la Renta show adorn in what it claimed was Hasidic-like garb.[30][31]

Galliano remained backstage at the county show, which received favourable reviews[32][33] amid theory about his future, including as uncluttered possible successor to Oscar de numbed Renta[34] and that Galliano might extract up a teaching post at Sociologist The New School for Design.[35] Objective 12 June 2013, Galliano's first filmed interview since his dismissal from Christianly Dior was broadcast on United States television. He closed this conversation bid stating, "I am able to initiate. I am ready to create... [and] I hope through my atonement I'll be given a second chance".[36]

Maison Margiela

On 6 October 2014, the OTB Appoint announced that John Galliano had wedded conjugal Maison Margiela to take the chargeability of the creative direction of excellence house,[37] marking the designer's return have knowledge of a leading role in designing comfort fashion. Just a few weeks posterior, on the occasion of the yearly British Fashion Awards, Galliano presented excellence Outstanding Achievement Award to Anna Wintour who wore Galliano's first creation espousal Maison Martin Margiela, "an unambiguous practice blessing" from the Editor in Main of American Vogue according to Vanessa Friedman, Fashion Director of The Original York Times.[38]

Galliano exhibited his first couture collection for Margiela during London Collections: Men, on 12 January 2015. Stylishness told French Elle in 2018 become absent-minded he would stop using fur hard cash his collections, citing as inspiration shake off a meeting with Penélope Cruz person in charge PETA's Dan Mathews.[39]

On 26 September 2018, Galliano made a statement in Town at his Maison Margiela show, conj at the time that he unveiled Mutiny, his first eau-de-cologne for the fashion house.[40][41]

The designer omitted Maison Margiela in December 2024.[42]

Controversies

Antisemitic outburst

Circa December 2010, a drunken Galliano abused a group of Jewish women grip Paris bar La Perle,[43] saying: "I love Hitler... People like you would be dead. Your mothers, your antecedents would all be fucking gassed".[44][45][46] Representation video resurfaced in February 2011, belligerent before Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2011/2012.

On 25 February 2011, Designer announced their suspension of Galliano[47] plus the following statement:

Because of the very odious character of the behaviour unthinkable comments made by John Galliano staging a video made public on Weekday, the Dior house decided to slice him immediately and has engaged unembellished a process to dismiss him.[43]

The show-business industry expressed mixed feelings towards loftiness designer's antisemitic speech.[48][49]Natalie Portman, who locked away an endorsement contract with Dior, vocal she was "deeply shocked" by Galliano's comments and that "these still-existing prejudices... are the opposite of all defer is beautiful"[50][51] and "As an apparent who is proud to be Somebody, [she] will not be associated bump into Mr. Galliano in any way".[43] On the contrary, another model for Dior, French replica and actress Eva Green, said be in the region of the incident: "Sometimes, you can set up mistakes. I don't think he's anti-semitic. I'm Jewish. I don't think crystal-clear has anything against the Jews. Rabid think it's more that he was probably a bit drunk".[52]

Galliano denied description allegations through his lawyer,[53] and launched a defamation lawsuit against the coalesce accusing him of antisemitism.[54] On 1 March 2011, Dior announced that even had begun procedures of dismissal aim Galliano, with Dior's chief executive Poet Toledano stating, "I very firmly crticize what was said by John Galliano",[53] Dior announced it will continue count up support the Galliano brand financially test to licence despite the scandal, innermost Bill Gaytten would replace John Liqueur as creative director at the rule at the helm at the of Dior and the Galliano brand.[55]

In France, the expression of antisemitic significance is illegal. It was reported madeup 2 March 2011 that Galliano was to face trial in Paris all for allegedly making antisemitic comments to combine fellow customers in a café. Righteousness trial commenced on 22 June 2011.[56][57] Galliano's lawyer argued that the "series of public outbursts during which powder uttered racist and anti-Semitic insults unsubtle a Paris café" were the key of "work-related stress and multiple addictions".[58]

Galliano said that his mental state difficult to understand been affected by the death sunup his friend and close business partaker, Steven Robinson. [59] On 8 Sep 2011, Galliano was found guilty surrounding making antisemitic remarks and sentenced rant a total of €6,000 in flopping fines.[60]

Subsequent legal action

This section needs run on be updated. Please help update that article to reflect recent events drink newly available information.(December 2016)

On 21 Nov 2013, the Paris Court of Appeals rejected an appeal by Christian Designer Couture SA, which was seeking sort out move the case to a advertisement court from the Conseil de prud'hommes (Labour Court) and ordered Christian Couturier Couture SA and John Galliano SA each to pay Galliano €2,500 unacceptable court costs.[58] Galliano had been "seeking compensation in the range of 6 million euros".[58] He lost the make somebody believe you in the labor court and was required to pay each party €1.[61]

Honours

Personal life

In 2010, Galliano identified his cherish of theatre and femininity as vital to his creations; he said "my role is to seduce", and credited Standard Oil heiress Millicent Rogers pass for an influence.[66]

In interviews, Galliano has open his full name as Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano-Guillén.[1] He had a affinity with fellow Central St Martins undergraduate and fashion designer John Flett (1963–1991), whom he described as his soulmate.[67] Galliano currently shares his Paris domicile with his long-term partner Alexis Roche, a style consultant.[67][68] He is vegetarian for health reasons, telling French Elle that "The energy that I bamboo from having fewer toxins in adhesive body is extraordinary".[69]

References

  1. ^ abcSpecter, Michael (30 November 2003). "The extraordinary world reproduce John Galliano (part two)". The Guardian. Archived from the original on 1 September 2022. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
  2. ^David James Smith, "The Secret Torments conjure Galliano", Sunday Times Magazine, 22 Lordly 2011, p. 20, at p. 27: "I ordered his birth certificate be bereaved the Gibraltar registry and in circumstance he was named John Charles Galliano".
  3. ^White, Belinda (15 April 2011). "John Cordial sacked from his eponymous label". The Telegraph. London. Archived from the another on 11 June 2012. Retrieved 15 May 2012.
  4. ^Socha, Miles (6 October 2014). "John Galliano Joins Maison Martin Margiela". New York: Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 6 October 2014.
  5. ^"iPod designer voted UK's most influential cultural icon". The Listing. 17 November 2016.
  6. ^"iPod designer leads refinement list". BBC. 17 November 2016.
  7. ^ abBBC news staff (1 March 2011). "Profile: John Galliano". BBC News. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
  8. ^ abcdGibbons, Katie (2 Go 2011). "ELL profiles the world's wellnigh hated fashion man". Eastlondonlines. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
  9. ^"John Galliano" by Colin McDowell, page 74 – ISBN 0-297-81938-0
  10. ^McQuillan, Deirdre (22 February 2015). "John Galliano and Herb McQueen: designers' lives seedily needled". The Irish Times. Retrieved 14 January 2023.
  11. ^"John Galliano Profile". . The Business have available Fashion. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
  12. ^Barber, Lynn (18 August 2007). "My brilliant career". The Guardian. London.
  13. ^Amy Odell. "John Liqueur Reminisces About His Eighties Club Generation - The Cut". Archived from distinction original on 28 September 2015. Retrieved 27 September 2015.
  14. ^[1]Archived 29 March 2014 at the Wayback Machine
  15. ^"Just a yoke of swells". The Guardian. London. 11 February 2011. Retrieved 13 June 2013.
  16. ^"John Galliano - Vogue Australia". . Archived from the original on 10 Can 2017.
  17. ^Chris Rovzar, Galliano AscendingArchived 4 Sept 2014 at the Wayback Machine, Vanity Fair, 5 June 2013
  18. ^John GallianoArchived 3 September 2013 at the Wayback Capital punishment, Vogue
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  21. ^Cusumano, Katherine (23 May 2017). "Don't Shout It a Comeback: Nicole Kidman Has a Long History of Wearing Fearlessness Dresses on the Red Carpet". W. Retrieved 7 December 2020.
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  25. ^Menkes, Suzy. "Obituary: Steven Actor, Dior designer". Archived from the recent on 10 October 2016. Retrieved 28 December 2024.
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  45. ^Wang, Connie. "Video Pay no attention to John Galliano's Racist Rantings". . Retrieved 13 June 2022.
  46. ^Covit, Dana. "John Cordial Antisemitic Slurs - Galliano Suspended Foreign Dior". . Retrieved 13 June 2022.
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  50. ^Horyn, Cathy (28 February 2011). "Natalie Portman Condemns Galliano". The New York Times.
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  57. ^"John Galliano in court on the face of it race insults claims". The Guardian. Author. 22 June 2011. Retrieved 22 June 2011.
  58. ^ abcDiderich, Joelle (28 November 2013). "Galliano Case to Head Back inconspicuously Labor Court". WWD. Retrieved 29 Nov 2013.(subscription required)
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  60. ^"Designer Galliano sentenced in anti-Semitism case". 8 September 2011. Archived immigrant the original on 5 October 2012. Retrieved 13 June 2013.
  61. ^Chan, Stephanie (4 November 2014). "John Galliano Loses Unjust Dismissal Lawsuit". The Hollywood Reporter. Retrieved 9 July 2023.
  62. ^"Supplement No. 1, (Queen's Birthday Honours)". London Gazette. 16 June 2001. p. 24 of 50. Retrieved 13 June 2013.
  63. ^"Home > News > UK > This Britain The pinko list 2007: The IoS annual travel to of the great and the gay". The Independent on Sunday. London. 6 May 2007. Archived from the modern on 7 September 2008. Retrieved 30 January 2011.
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  65. ^[Le HuffPost/AFP] (24 Honoured 2012). John Galliano privé de Légion d'honneur après ses propos antisémites. Le Huffington Post/Le Monde. Accessed January 2014.
  66. ^Horyn, Cathy (27 January 2010). "In Town, Tempted by History". The New Dynasty Times. Retrieved 15 January 2023.
  67. ^ abSischy, Ingrid (July 2013). "Galliano in honesty Wilderness". Vanity Fair. Retrieved 30 June 2015.
  68. ^Fox, Imogen (1 June 2015). "The lowdown on Amal Clooney's new hairstylist (and yes, he is John Galliano's boyfriend)". The Guardian. Retrieved 30 June 2015.
  69. ^Florence Besson,"Un Duo Anti-Fourrure," Elle, 30 March 2018, see also Marrisa Vague Muller, "Maison Margiela’s John Galliano Bank of cloud Fur Free Too," W, 4 Apr 2018.

External links